Camino Day 21: Fromista to Carrion de los Condes

Date: April 21st, 2022

Distance: 19km/11.8miles

Time: 5 1/2 hours (8:00am-1:30pm)

Morning coffee with the gang in another sleepy town before setting off. I walked and chatted with Carlos this morning.

We are now in the part of the Camino that is referred to as the meseta– a long, flat, shadeless stretch. Many people find it to be monotonous and boring, and for this reason, it’s often referred to as the “mind” section.

Since I’ve been here, I’ve heard many people categorize the Camino into 3 parts. The first is physical- your body is adjusting to walking, to long days, pain, to intense ups and downs. The second part is mental- moving away from physical pain and into your own head as you cross the expanse of the meseta. The third part is spiritual- the last stretch where the foundation has been laid for transformations of the heart. Of course this all overlaps, and everyone has their own Camino experience, but it’s an interesting perspective.

As much as I’ve been in my head on the maseta, there’s still new physical elements emerging. I now have blisters for the first time on the toe and heel of my left foot and some new shin soreness.

Lunch today was an unexpectedly adorable little place with a food, coffee, a hammock and farm animals! I pet donkeys and dogs, and a fiesty goose nipped at my leg. I ate a chorizo and cheese sandwich in a hammock. Not a bad lunch stop.

I arrived solo to Carrion de los Condes. Made my way to a park bench next to the church, put my bag down, sat in the sun, and ate a banana.

When the others arrived, 2 grouchy, old ladies checked us into Albergue Espiritu Santu. The vibes of our albergue felt all too familiar- a welcome poster in all languages, bulletin boards, a long, decorated hallway- it seemed we were staying in a former school. There were about 8 pilgrims per spacious classroom.. and no bunk beds!

The afternoon was simple yet stellar. Tash, Chris and I found a patch of grass outside where we laid down, heads together, and did some Wim Hof breathing (and some handstands, as one does in the grass).

Then, we walked a couple meters to a bar/restaurant where we sat in the sun, drank our drinks of choice and snacked on tortillas, chorizo, crispy pork, cream filled sweets.

We wrapped up our evening with a pilgrim dinner and per usual… a lot of jokes and laughter. Wouldn’t have it any other way. So grateful for my Camino squad. <3