Camino Day 34: O Cebreiro to Fonfria

Day: May 4th, 2022

Distance: 12km/7.5 miles (!!!)

Time: 3 hours (8:45am-11:45am)

When we woke in O Cebreiro, if felt like we were on top of the world. We were certainly above the clouds… there was an ocean of clouds right outside our door- the top of the mountain peeking out like a little island.

We drank coffee (americano, cafe con leche) at our little stone albergue before heading out.

Today was a gloriously short hiking day- we planned this on purpose so that we could enjoy some pre-birthday fun and relaxation at a cute, cabin-like place in the tiny mountain town of Fonfria.

We arrived before noon, which felt so luxurious and indulgent. Chris and I were the first to arrive, so while waiting for the others, we drank a bottle of wine while and played rummy. And of course we had to sample the fresh cheese drizzled with honey- twice. Lola, the sweet lady working at the albergue pointed to the cows at a farm across the street, where our cheese came from. True farm to table living in these tiny towns, and I’m here for it.

When the others arrived, we moved the party outside, where we sat in the sun, enjoyed the cows, drank several more bottles of wine, and played farkle.

For dinner, we gathered in the wigwam-like building and enjoyed the most amazing home-cooked meal. Hot Galician soup with veggies, warm white rice, juicy chunks of meat and pepper, tarta de santiago for dessert (like a dense cake) & red wine, which is always on offer at the pilgrims dinner table.

Did we need more wine after dinner? No. But did we get it anyway? Yes, of course. We curled up on couches in the common area- sipping, chatting, and planning the rest of our days/albergues. There’s not many days left now, so they must be thoroughly enjoyed… as today was.

Another solid Camino day for the books.